Veal

Voli are marbles, the multicolored little balls that were so popular with kids during my childhood. But unlike the glass versions, which were quite expensive, the ones we used to play with were made of clay and colored in various bright, glossy shades. They were fragile, and their glaze would crack, revealing their dark red insides, similar in color to these delicious meatballs with bulgur. This recipe comes from the island of Rhodes, and bulgur is probably the grain originally used. Later, in the stewed meatballs of the mainland, it was replaced by rice.

The slight sweetness of the pomegranate jus complements the peppery spice rub on the veal. The chef likes to serve these with a mélange of vegetables such as pearl onions, baby beets, and asparagus.

Be sure to have the butcher bone the veal chops. Serve this elegant main course with vegetables.

In this elegant entrée, the leeks mellow to lend a bit of sweetness to the sauce.

Also serve puréed winter squash and fettuccine tossed with sage and butter. For dessert, put out chilled grapes and a platter of anise biscotti with sweetened mascarpone cheese.

Cabernet Sauvignon can be substituted for the Merlot, but either way, have mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli florets with the veal, and wedges of chocolate mousse cake afterward.

"I developed this recipe last winter and think it makes excellent cold-weather fare," says Lora Anderson of Cincinnati, Ohio.

"Pané" comes from the French verb "paner," meaning to coat with bread crumbs.

The stew does need to bake for a couple of hours, but it's very easy to put together.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 18 hr (includes chilling)

(NIVERNAIS)

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 18 hr (includes chilling)

An elegant and simple main course.

There is probably nothing more dramatic — or better to eat — than a whole veal shank. It's a showstopper; when we bring this out from the kitchen prior to carving it tableside, every head turns, and for good reason. The succulent meat and the delicious marrow are truly impressive.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

As Gourmet wrote in 1959: "Long ago...it did occur to some blithe spirit, a poet of the kitchen to be sure, that when these little veal rolls were arranged on a platter they looked like a flock of headless birds. And oiseaux sans têtes, or veal birds, they remain to this day in the cuisines of such diverse countries as Belgium, Italy, and France.

The eclectic menu at Razz's Restaurant & Bar in Scottsdale, Arizona, takes its cues from around the world. This curried veal dish is representative of chef-owner Erasmo "Razz" Kamnitzers talents. Razz is fond od of grains, so rice pilaf is appropriate here, along with steamed green and yellow zucchini. Vanilla puddings sprinkled with pistachios and raspberries would make a nice finish to this exotic menu. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

An essential ingredient in their cuisine of Corfu, vinegar provides the distinctive taste in this traditional main course named "sofrito". The veal is commonly served with mashed potatoes.

The secret of making fried rice lies in the use of cold, cooked rice. Freshly cooked rice will only produce a sticky mess.