Veal

As Gourmet wrote in 1959: "Long ago...it did occur to some blithe spirit, a poet of the kitchen to be sure, that when these little veal rolls were arranged on a platter they looked like a flock of headless birds. And oiseaux sans têtes, or veal birds, they remain to this day in the cuisines of such diverse countries as Belgium, Italy, and France.

The eclectic menu at Razz's Restaurant & Bar in Scottsdale, Arizona, takes its cues from around the world. This curried veal dish is representative of chef-owner Erasmo "Razz" Kamnitzers talents. Razz is fond od of grains, so rice pilaf is appropriate here, along with steamed green and yellow zucchini. Vanilla puddings sprinkled with pistachios and raspberries would make a nice finish to this exotic menu. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Any leftover sauce from this recipe would be delicious served with boiled new potatoes or crudités. The sauce keeps 4 days, chilled and covered. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

We used veal in the following recipe; however, turkey cutlets (slices of raw turkey breast) would also be delicious and have about half the fat grams. When the veal or turkey is pounded, the cutlets may tear. The holes can be sealed with wooden toothpicks, and as soon as the roulades are baked, the holes with close. We suggest cooking the potatoes before the roulades, as they require a higher oven temperature. If desired, the potatoes may then be warmed up in the oven as the roulades finish baking.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Mashed potatoes and buttered baby carrots are naturals with the veal. Sprinkle grated chocolate over coffee frozen yogurt for a quick but sophisticated ending.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The veal shanks are extremely tender and have lots of great-tasting sauce. Serve them with the butternut polenta and steamed rapini (also called broccoli rabe), and offer Pinot Noir with dinner.

In this elegant entrée, the leeks mellow to lend a bit of sweetness to the sauce.

Also serve puréed winter squash and fettuccine tossed with sage and butter. For dessert, put out chilled grapes and a platter of anise biscotti with sweetened mascarpone cheese.

Voli are marbles, the multicolored little balls that were so popular with kids during my childhood. But unlike the glass versions, which were quite expensive, the ones we used to play with were made of clay and colored in various bright, glossy shades. They were fragile, and their glaze would crack, revealing their dark red insides, similar in color to these delicious meatballs with bulgur. This recipe comes from the island of Rhodes, and bulgur is probably the grain originally used. Later, in the stewed meatballs of the mainland, it was replaced by rice.

Cabernet Sauvignon can be substituted for the Merlot, but either way, have mashed potatoes and steamed broccoli florets with the veal, and wedges of chocolate mousse cake afterward.

Be sure to have the butcher bone the veal chops. Serve this elegant main course with vegetables.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes.

(Pasta con Ragù di Vitello, Salsicce e Porcini) Ragù is a beloved part of Tuscan cooking. Every person has his or her own recipe, but the basics are constant: It is a hearty sauce made with meat (beef, pork, veal, duck, even boar) and vegetables like carrots, tomatoes and onions, all cooked in wine and broth. And ragù is most often served over pasta. This recipe includes dried porcini mushrooms, which give the sauce a real taste of the Tuscan countryside.

John Schumacher bought the historic but deteriorating Broz Hotel, 50 miles southwest of Minneapolis, back in 1974. After renovating the building, he reopened it as a European-style hotel and restaurant. Schumachers' is now on the National Register of Historic Places. John's wife, Kathleen, runs the front of the popular restaurant, and John is the chef. His specialties are central European fare — like this veal sauté.

"I recently had lunch at Café Boulud here in New York," says Shelli Rafkin of New York, New York. "My entrée, blanquette de veau, had the most incredible sauce I've ever tasted. The whole dish, in fact, was sensational." In this variation on the classic stew, the veal and the vegetables are cooked separately and combined at the end, when they're topped with a rich white sauce.