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best baguettes in america
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Bernard Ganachaud, in the early 1960s, made the poolish baguette the first legitimate alternative to the 60-2-2 baguette of the Parisian masses. When he retired thirty years later, his la flûte Gana was a licensed commodity, and bakers who paid for the right to make it were allowed to charge an extra franc above the government-controlled price. In the Coupe du Monde bread competition, the poolish baguette is now the standard that all countries must replicate. In my visits to the boulangeries of Paris, the poolish baguette made at the original Ganachaud Boulangerie was the second best baguette I ever had (the first being the pain à l’ancienne of Philippe Gosselin). Ganachaud has a special medium-extraction flour (with his name prominently displayed on the bags, naturally) from which he makes his baguettes, and there isn’t any flour quite like it in America. It is slightly higher in ash content and bran than regular bread flour, more like clear flour (whole-wheat flour that has been sifted only once instead of the usual twice to remove the bran and germ). The closest I’ve come to replicating that flour is described below and it makes a wonderful baguette, perhaps as good as can be done outside of the magical environment of Paris and without true Ganachaud-endorsed flour. Some people prefer it to the Gosselin baguette. See what you think.
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It would be a mistake to only seek out baguettes in Paris. Here are the other breads worth hunting down
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Soft in the center, crisp at the edges, and coated in cinnamon sugar—everything a classic snickerdoodle should be.
4.5
(4.52)
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Lemon peel gives extra zip to this warm, garlicky bread. The recipe makes enough for everyone to have more than one helping.
Recipes
For BLTs, French toast, grilled cheeses, bread and jam, the daily lunchbox sandwich, or whenever an absolutely perfect loaf of white bread is required. This is part of BA's Best, a collection of our essential recipes.
3.0
(2.94)
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The best beignets come from New Orleans, but the high protein content in bread flour gives this classic-style beignets recipe an authentic texture.
3.0
(3.08)
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The relatively large amount of salt in this bread is the secret to a full-flavored baguette.
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Peter Reinhart is a well-known cookbook author; his Crust and Crumb, The Bread Baker’s Apprentice, and Whole Grain Breads have been graced with prestigious awards. At Ramekins, where he occasionally teaches bread classes, Peter and I baked bread and pizzas together in the wood-fired oven after his last class. This recipe came from his The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. It is an amazing formula that can be turned into baguettes, ciabatta, focaccia, and pizza. That baking session was about a lot more than the recipe. It was about the primary message of this book: joyfully cooking and sharing with others at the fire.
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3.4
(3.4)
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As a crisp topping for pasta or steamed vegetables (Garlic Baguette Crumbs) or as a crucial ingredient (in the Apple Prune Brown Betty), these are worlds apart from store-bought bread crumbs.
Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr (includes cooling)
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Instead of making two large loaves, divide the dough into four equal pieces for demi-baguettes.
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With all the emphasis on French and Italian rustic breads these days, it is easy to overlook the fact that the real center of the bread and pastry universe for hundreds of years was Vienna. Most of the great French breads that we love today, including baguettes, croissants, and even puff pastry, came to France a couple hundred years ago via the Austro-Hungarian empire, where they found a hungry audience willing to support these Austrian (which included Polish) bakers. Nowadays, the main distinction in American (and even European) bakeries between French, Italian, and Vienna breads, is the presence of a few enrichments in the latter. A little added sugar and malt causes the crust to brown faster, and a small amount of butter or shortening tenderizes the dough by coating and “shortening” the gluten strands. The shape, as with all culturally based bread, is determined by the baker based on function, but we usually think of Vienna bread as typically twelve inches long and weighing one pound. It is often scored down the middle to make a nice “ear,” but does not have quite as hard a crust nor as open a crumb as French bread. This dough makes exceptional pistolets (torpedo rolls), similar to the hoagie rolls made from the Italian bread on page 172, and it can be baked in loaf pans for excellent sandwich loaves. One of the best applications for this dough is to make Dutch crunch bread, as discussed on page 264.
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techniques
Our editors' favorites, from Seattle to South Wellfleet
Bon Appétit
Restaurants
Bagels across America are seriously great now, as bakers develop their own regional styles. To celebrate, we put together a list of the finest ones—outside of New York and the tristate area.
Bon Appétit Staff & Contributors
Restaurants
Across the country, chefs are amping up their bread baskets, and the results are worth every penny
Matt Duckor
best-new-restaurants
From a taco-gyro hybrid to an epic meatloaf sandwich that rivals your grandma's, here are the best sandwiches we ate this year.
Andrew Knowlton
techniques
Andrew Knowlton
Videos
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“Russ & Daughters has been on the market almost 110 years. The work here differs from what I did back in Ukraine–everything is on a bigger scale.” Today Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with baker Vita Sechin at Russ & Daughters in New York. One of the oldest bagel shops in NYC and producing about 400 dozen bagels a day, Russ & Daughters is one of the city’s most popular spots.
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Bon Appétit spends a day on the line with Chef Mike Bagale, executive chef at NYC’s best new bar, Sip & Guzzle. Chef Bagale is redefining cocktail bar food with his Japanese-American fusion menu–from a limited edition #1 Wagyu burger to caviar-topped desserts. See how NYC’s most exciting new bar is also serving one of the city’s most innovative food menus.
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Chef Meg Bickford of Commander's Palace in New Orleans shows how to make authentic seafood gumbo from scratch. Using a dark roux for deep flavor and shrimp, blue crab, and Gulf oysters, along with okra, spices, and aromatics, this gumbo is a rich Louisiana classic using Cajun and Creole techniques.
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Bon Appétit spends a day on the line at Jules Pizza in San Francisco with chef-owner Max Blachman-Gentile. From stretching dough and building the perfect New York-style crust with New Haven-inspired char, see how Jules creates some of the Bay Area's most talked-about pizzas.
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See how the meat is made! See how that meat goes into the sandwich. This dank vid takes a tour through 5 sammies brah, you won't even believe how tasty it looks, brah.
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Learn how to make the perfect brioche French toast with chef Neil Kleinberg of Clinton Street Baking Company. Discover the restaurant secrets behind custardy French toast, from thick-cut brioche and balanced batter to caramelised bananas and rich maple butter for a delicious brunch recipe at home.