Peach

The story of the Bellini begins during Prohibition with American playboy Harry Pickering, who drank at the Europa Hotel in Venice with bartender Giuseppe Cipriani. Pickering’s family had cut off his funds in a last-ditch effort to get him back home and quit drinking. Pickering asked Cipriani for a loan of 10,000 lire—the equivalent of $61,000 today—to get his affairs in order. Cipriani lent him his life savings, only to not hear a word from Pickering for over a year. Legend has it that when Pickering returned to the bar, he ordered a drink and paid Cipriani 50,000 lire as a show of gratitude so he could open his own bar. In 1931, Harry’s Bar in Venice opened and the Bellini cocktail was created there shortly afterward.

Blood peaches are large, with dark red skin surrounding a rich, crimson, juicy flesh that is quite tart. They bruise easily, so they are frequently broken down for use in chutneys, jams, pastries, ice creams, and sorbets. We figured this would also mean that they were ideal for making cocktails. The Bellini was the obvious choice as our first guinea pig. We accentuated the bitterness of the fruit with a little Campari while also increasing the intensity of the color. The result is a refreshing eye-opener with slight bitterness and charm. Blood peaches are very rare, fresh or frozen, so if you can get your hands on them, grab them. You can also make this cocktail by blending white peach purée with EO homemade Grenadine for color.

One summer morning, I decided to make good use of the ripe stone fruit I had picked up at the farmer’s market. I didn’t have any brioche at home, but I did have a loaf of sourdough. It turned out that the tanginess of the bread was delicious with the sweet fruit. And amaretto adds just the right hint of almond.

I love to present this in martini glasses like an old-school shrimp cocktail. The sauce has the horseradish bite of the classic, but with a juicy, sweet freshness from the peach. Traditionally, the shrimp would be chilled first, but I serve them warm for a hit of hot and cold at the same time in each bite.

I look forward to peach season like some people look forward to Christmas. Just thinking about fresh, sliced peaches, seasoned perfectly and accompanied by a perfect crust, is enough to make my mouth water. The options for peach pie are virtually never ending. Not only is it equally tasty with a flaky traditional or sweet crumbly topping, but peaches also blend beautifully with other fruits, including blueberries, raspberries, dried cranberries, and strawberries. While we use blueberries here, try substituting a cup of your own favorite fruit (the fresher, the better). Be sure to also try this with Cinnamon Sugar Crumb Topping (page 12).

Peaches are at their best mid-July through September. When selecting peaches, look for those that do not have a green undertone—the sweetest peaches will come in warmer color shades and will omit a sweet odor. The most daunting part of this recipe is—surprise—actually peeling the peaches, but I have a great, simplified method for this process (see page 44). You can also make this pie with a Traditional Pastry double crust (page 5).

We like this pie a little on the tart side; if you prefer a sweeter taste, increase the granulated sugar to 3/4 cup. To keep the dough from getting soggy, fill the pie shell just before you’re ready to cover with top crust.

This pie can be made with any berry or stone fruit, although we prefer sour cherries, peaches, or blueberries. If you can’t find fresh sour cherries, use two pounds of frozen pitted cherries instead; defrost and drain well before using.

Turnovers are always a favorite; their light Puff Pastry shells burst with fresh fruit. Our three fillings provide this classic dessert with a fresh twist: Five-spice powder lends its subtle aroma to pear, peach chunks blend with homemade raspberry jam, and sage plays off the sweetness of summer blueberries. All the fillings can be used interchangeably—simply prepare and fill the dough as instructed.

Peach season is fleeting, but this seasonal pie is so delicious that you should slip it into your summer any way you can. If the edges of the crust begin to brown before the rest of the pie, cover them with foil. Enjoy plain or add a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

A thin double-crust slab, baked in a rimmed sheet pan, is perfect for pie lovers who prefer a high crust-to-filling ratio. The pâte brisée crust is peppered with polka-dot cutouts made with a round pastry tip; you can try this technique on a double-crust pie in any shape, size, or flavor. For easy unmolding, line the baking sheet with parchment paper with a one-inch overhang on long sides before baking the pie.

This pie has all the makings of a favorite summer dish: ease, seasonal flavor, and laid-back appeal. Peaches and cream are a justly celebrated pair, even more so when the “cream” is crème fraîche: Its slight tartness beautifully complements the sweet fruit. As the pie bakes, the crème fraîche sets like a custard, the peaches become tender, and the crumb topping turns golden and perfectly crisp.

Making a pie, or in this case a tart, can be remarkably simple—as easy as baking a batch of cookies, in fact. Pâte sablée is essentially a cookie dough. Here it’s pressed into a springform pan before baking. In this recipe, cornmeal stands in for some of the flour; its flavor works well with summer fruits, but if you don’t have it, you can certainly use all flour. To make the filling, toss fresh fruit with sugar, add it to the partially baked tart shell, then finish baking. Peaches and berries are pictured, but if you have apricots or cherries on hand, feel free to use them instead; this low-key recipe takes kindly to improvisation.

Moist, cakey, and flecked with fresh fruit in every bite, these cookies are just the thing to pack into a picnic basket on a late-summer day.

When the peaches are perfect, ripe and succulent, make this dish. The real fun comes when you set the sauce ablaze. Just watch your eyebrows!

When we were children, we never made homemade ice cream unless we had company. I’m not sure if it was because we were being sociable or if it was because we needed help with the old hand churn. After working that hard, you definitely deserved a big bowl of ice cream! Daddy always added fresh peaches to this recipe because he loved homemade peach ice cream. Feel free to experiment with a fruit you love. I usually make it plain, then put out bowls of peaches, strawberries, bananas, nuts, and chocolate syrup so my guests can top it as they please.

You can’t be considered a serious southern cook if you don’t know how to make peach cobbler. Canned or frozen fruit works better in some recipes than fresh, and this is a perfect example. I recommend any brand of canned freestone peaches because they are tender and tasty. This dessert is easy to make and it tastes delicious, especially with a huge dollop of Home-Churned Ice Cream (page 212) on top.

Flavor pairing comes naturally when using products that come from the same region, and Lakewood’s assistant winemaker, John Damian, developed this recipe to prove it. The secret to a chicken dish that he guarantees will awaken sleeping taste buds is the combination of fragrant, flavorful local peaches and just enough residual sugar in the wine to give the marinade a lift.

Peach pie is such a happy pie. Maybe because peaches are in season during the summer, peach pie seems to call out for taking it easy and enjoying the day.

This glorious galette, or rustic pie, will accommodate just about any fruit, but its open top makes a particularly pretty frame for the jeweled hues of summer’s stone fruits and berries; my favorites are apricot/blueberry for the beginning of summer, and peach/blackberry for the Fourth of July. Fig/raspberry, though not stone fruit, is great in the late summer and early fall. You could trim the dough into a neat round, but I prefer the rustic look of jaggedy edges—and leaving it untrimmed ensures that not a bit of the buttery dough goes to waste. Serve with plenty of fresh whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

These grilled peaches are infinitely versatile: you can eat them by themselves as a light first course; for a more substantial salad, serve them on a bed of lightly dressed arugula. They are even lovely as dessert. The best part is that you can grill the peaches a few hours ahead of time and then assemble them just before serving. For best results, use peaches that are ripe but still relatively firm; the extra sturdiness makes them easier to manipulate on the grill. And freestone varieties (ones where the pit separates cleanly from the flesh) are by far easier to work with here than clingstones. If you can’t find hazelnuts, almonds or walnuts will work nicely, too.

Florida chef Oliver Saucy, who attended the 1995 Workshop, tosses the peaches in his fruit crisp with crystallized ginger—a nice touch. Serve warm with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a dollop of whipped cream. Tapioca flour thickens the peach juices without making them cloudy or imparting a floury taste. If you can’t find it, purchase pearl tapioca and grind it fine in a spice mill or coffee grinder.