Leek

The following soup can be made with any variety of pumpkin except the traditional jack-o-lantern variety, which is too watery and lacks flavor. Apple Schnitz, time-honored Pennsylvania Dutch preserved apples, make a healthy snack as well as a novel garnish.

This Basque dish is essentially a fish pâté or pudding, called budíns in Spain.

A colorful and unusual first course.

Potatoes are a major crop in northern New England, especially in Maine, and roots such as turnips have always played an important role in the region's cuisine. The availability and longevity of both vegetables make them indispensable for coldweather cooking.

This dish is a wonderful combination of French and Indian flavors. Basmati rice and a green salad would round out the meal.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The mild flavor of leeks adds a nice touch to the pasta's tomato-based sauce.

The Provençal specialty known as brandade is typically made with salt cod. Serve this vegetarian version as a main course topped with a poached egg. It's also great as a side dish or spread on toasts for an appetizer.

Called "Uncle Johns" in the Monegasque dialect (or barbajuans), these little fried pouches are filled with pumpkin, leeks, rice, and Parmesan cheese. Like their Italian cousins — the tortelli di zucca from Lombardy — they are prepared like ravioli, but the similarity ends there. The dough, though not a pasta dough, is very thinly rolled and made with olive oil. The barbajuans are fried to a golden crispiness rather than boiled or baked, and they are served with aperitifs rather than as a first course.

The port cities of Normandy-Caen among them-offer almost endless choices for fall menu planning. For this satisfying stew, the natural bounty of Normandy's waters, the rich cream of its pasturelands and its distinctive apple-based brandy called Calvados are combined with savory root vegetables from the local harvest. Start out with your favorite pâté and some cornichons, and serve a crusty baguette with the stew. Pour a white Burgundy or hard cider.

An old-fashioned and versatile dish. Serve it over split hot biscuits (or toasted English muffins) for brunch or over egg noodles for a comforting simple dinner.

A star starter from Hubert Keller at Fleur de Lys in San Francisco. A good mold for the timbale is a six-ounce tomato-paste can that has the top and bottom removed.

Works well as part of a vegetarian meal or as an accompaniment to meat or fowl.

Here's a perfect partner for turkey or veal burgers, sausages and toasted French bread.