Stock

You can make this stock with a variety of fish carcasses (from nonoily fish) or with just one type — whatever your seafood market can give you.

Active time: 1 1/2 hr Start to finish: 18 hr (includes chilling)

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 hr

Though this pale-orange liquid may not look terribly impressive, its flavor is the very essence of tomato. In addition to using it as a base for soup, we treat it almost like lemon juice, adding a dash here and there to any of our summer recipes that call for a little extra zest.

Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 4 hr

Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 45 min

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. From Maryland to Georgia, crabs are a prized part of the African-American diet. If the crabs need to be boiled before other steps in preparation (as are the pickled shrimp above), a commercial crab boil such as Old Bay seasoning is often used. For the lucky few, though, there's homemade crab boil, an all-purpose seasoning that, besides for shrimp and crab, can also be used for crawfish.

This stock is even easier to put together than <epi:recipelink id="105266">Strong Fish Stockepi:recipelink. It does not require fish heads, only the bones of flat fish — sole, founder, halibut, or turbot — and it doesn’t call for the extra step of sweating the bones. It has a more delicate seafood flavor, and it is not as gelatinous as the Strong Fish Stock, making it very versatile. In addition to chowder and seafood stews like bouillabaisse, you can use this to make fish velouté and delicate French sauces such as Bercy (based on velouté and shallots) or bonnefemme.</epi:recipelink></epi:recipelink>

This recipe uses a technique called "sweating" to extract maximum flavor from every ingredient. Although sweating adds a step, this stock is still effortless to make and takes only five minutes longer to cook than the Traditional Fish Stock. I begin by sautéing a very thinly sliced mirepoix (onions, celery, and carrots) with herbs and peppercorns. I then layer fish heads and frames (bones) on top of these vegetables, add a little white wine, and cover the pot. As the heads and bones "sweat" (and steam), the proteins are drawn out. If you peek, you will actually see little white droplets of flavorful protein coagulating on the surface of the bones. After the sweating is completed (about 15 minutes), I cover the bones with water and simmer them briefly. I let the mixture steep for 10 minutes before straining it, producing a stock that is full-flavored and gelatinous. The fish heads are what endow this stock with its marvelous jellied consistency, which in turn gives a luscious mouth feel to the chowder broth.

We like the flavor that 6 pounds of breast bones and 4 pounds of knuckles bring to this stock.