Fritter

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The following is an adaptation of a recipe originally appearing in Gourmet, August 1958.

We found that using finely stone-ground cornmeal yielded a denser, slightly heavier fritter than regular stone-ground cornmeal. Though both tasted the same, we preferred the texture of the fritter made with regular cornmeal.

These hearty falafel are equally delicious eaten alone or piled into pita bread with lettuce, tomato, onion, and tahini sauce. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 13 3/4 hr (includes soaking chickpeas)

In my family's house, turkey croquettes were a revered delicacy had only after Thanksgiving and Christmas (it took a lot of work, we were often told). It wasn't until I was in college that I learned "croquette" meant a solution to leftovers. But I still think of this recipe, passed down from my father's mother to my mother to me and my sister, as special. Yes, it is a lot of work. But the soul-warming richness — and guaranteed compliments — make it worth the effort.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

David Barber, chef at Three Square Grill in Portland, Oregon, writes: "Even though I cook for a living, I still enjoy having friends over for dinner. My wife, Barbara, and I actually have the worst kitchen in the world. But that doesn't matter when you have what I consider the basics, like a good sharp chef's knife and a stand mixer. And because Barbara is a gardener, we've learned how to make impressive meals using fewer, but fresher, ingredients."

There is a historical reason why most Hanukkah menus offer foods that have been fried in oil. In the second century B.C., a one-day supply of oil inexplicably burned for eight days and eight nights after Judah Maccabee and his followers recaptured Jerusalem's Holy Temple from their Syrian oppressors. Hanukkah is the celebration of that miracle, and fried foods are served to commemorate the oil. In this country, the Eastern European potato latke is usually featured. These fritters are a Sephardic contribution to that tradition.

At the restaurant, these are called truffles and are served on mixed greens with a watercress vinaigrette, but they are also excellent presented on their own as hors d'oeuvres.

"I'm hoping to get the recipe for a terrific appetizer I tried at Hamiltons' at First & Main in Charlottesville, Virginia," says Sue Carter of Murieta, California. "The seafood fritters came with lettuce leaves (to wrap around the fritters) and a spicy sauce."

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

For a nice vegetarian meal, offer these latkes with a Greek salad. Stir chopped fresh mint into yogurt to have with the latkes.

Even though they are most often associated with the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah, potato pancakes have a year-round appeal. Here they are given a Middle Eastern twist with the addition of flour made from chick-peas - the dominant flavor in falafel - as well as chilis, herbs and spices. Pour a dry white wine. For dessert, present fruit and some halvah. Chick-pea flour is available at Middle Eastern and Indian markets.

These replace the more familiar Hanukkah latkes that are prepared with grated raw potatoes. The croquettes are made with bolbess, the Jewish mashed potato stuffing for goose. But like latkes, they are fried in oil to symbolize the miracle of the oil that is the basis for Hanukkah. In the second century b.c., a one-day supply of oil burned for eight days and nights after followers of Judah Maccabee captured the Holy Temple of Jerusalem from their Syrian oppressors. Fried foods are served at Hanukkah in commemoration.

Here's an Asian - and very elegant - spin on the classic American crab cakes. A dry Gewürztraminer compliments the flavors of this appetizer very well.

Also called bimuelos, these are a typical Sephardic Hanukkah dessert. The oil in which they are deep-fried commemorates the time during the second century B. C. when a vial of oil, enough for only one day, is said to have burned in the Temple for eight days after the Jews' victory over their Syrian oppressors.

Wemonrat Pok, an immigrant from Thailand, opened Siam House 11 years ago near the campus of Indiana University in the lively college town of Bloomington. It's a family business — Wemonrat is the chef, and her aunt and cousin help out with the cooking. The elegant restaurant with several small dining rooms occupies a lovely old home. Thai sculptures and creaky hardwood floors add to the charm; great food and an accommodating staff keep locals coming back. The batter and bananas can be prepared ahead of time, leaving only the frying to do at the last minute.

Serve these with a salad and some sausage for a hearty main course.

This is a colorful variation on the classic potato latke.

These savory pancakes can be an appetizer, a side dish or a meatless main course.